The Cabin

The Cabin

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Nashinator ~ Other modifications/additions


Here are a few other mods we have made to the Nashinator 17C.

Built cabinet for DVD player under cabinets and mounted LCD TV. These are above the rear dinette seat.


Used dead space on the right side of the kitchen area, next to the couch/bed to build this magazine, DVD, laptop rack.

Ladder-mounted bike rack

"Indespensible" soap/shampoo/conditioner dispenser in shower


 Built step with non-skid strips


 So as to not compete with our son's TV when watching TV on the Laptop at night, we like to use wireless headphones. The infrared transmitter is mounted under the flip-up table and 12v is wired back to the power distribution panel.

Monday, March 12, 2012

Nashinator Inverter and Electricity Minutiae



Having pulled our Xantrex Freedom 458 2kw inverter/charger out of the Tioga before selling it, we recently installed it in the Nashinator. Our Xantrex was used when we bought it, which is a good thing because they sell for over $1000 new. For those curious minds, an inverter converts 12v dc into 120vac. A 2000w inverter can give you 15 amps of AC. The Xantrex 458 is also a 3-stage charger with a 150A max output, so it can recharge our (2) golf cart batteries in short time. I pulled 4 awg cable directly from the inverter to the batteries mounted on the trailer's A-frame. These cables were fed under the wood floor, but above the under panel where the insulation is.

Since I wired the inverter into the "general purpose" AC circuits, we now have the ability to plug pretty much anything into an AC outlet and get power without being plugged into street power or running a generator. This is pretty cool to have AC power anytime you want, without the noisy generator running.. Of course the limitation is how much amp-hour capacity you have in your batteries. It does not power the air condinioner, the microwave, or the water heater's 120v element.

The boring math:
Our (2) 6v golf cart batteries have a capacity of 210 ah (amp-hours) when fully charged. But you shouldn't discharge these batteries more that 1/2 of its max capacity, so really it's 100ah of available capacity. (That's 100 amp for one hour, or 1 amp for 100 hours)  For every 1 amp of AC power needed, it draws 10 amps from the batteries.   (Power=Amps X Volts)

Kyle's 19" LCD TV/DVD combo draws around 30w, or 0.25amps. So for every hour he watches TV, we'd use up 0.25ah of AC power, but 2.5a DC power. If Deb and I are also watching a movie on the laptop, that's 90w (0.75a)/hr AC. So using both, we consume 10 amps/hr from the battery.

But you also have lights (20w), water pump (40w), and (gulp) the furnace (80w) and coffee maker (650w). So based on a "typical" conservative day of dry camping, one might expect to use around 90 amp-hours per day, which is most of the battery capacity you can use.  

You can reduce this consumption in several ways:
  • Add a solar panel. If you read my previous blog, our 120w panel can provide up to 7 amps per hour, but realistically let's say 3-5 amps average depending on light. Over an eight-hour period of reasonable daylight, that gives you back 30 ah's per day. So now that 90 ah/day consumption drops to 60. 
  • Go to LED lighting.  Those little incandescent lamps really add up. (4) 20w lights running 3 hours per day, consume 20 ah/day. I went to LED lamps that plug right into the sockets and they only draw 3 watts each. so now I'm saving another 17 ah/day dropping daily draw to 43 ah/day. 
  • Use a percolator or french press for coffee vrs an electric drip machine. Save another 13.5 ah/day, so now we're down to 30ah draw.
  • Use a catalytic heater instead of a furnace. Save 13 ah/day. Now down to 17 ah draw/day. These puppies put out a lot of heat and only use propane. We have a "Mr. Heater" portable unit, which needs to be used only with ventilation. The popular brand for RV are the Olympian Wave heaters, which are very safe, but are a more permanent installation and space, which we don't have. 
But then all of this is somewhat optimistically theoretical, because there are other losses that draw down such as LP and CO2 detectors, fridge lights, and water heater controllers. A cool thing to have is a Bogart Trimetric Power monitor (see photo-upper). This puppy accurately tracks your rig's % full, voltage, amperage, and/or watts. A very handy tool when dry camping to see what's going on. We also have a Xantrex Control module (center) mounted in the same location which gives you battery status as well as full control over what the inverter is doing. For example, the inverter draws battery amps even when unloaded, so at night or when gone we can turn it off. 

The inverter and solar charge controller are mounted under the front seat of the Nash 17c's dinette. This was otherwise somewhere dead space. 


Electrical System Before Conversion


Electrical System After Conversion


The replacement LED lamps I am using


Here are some good sites with much more detail on dry camping






Sunday, March 11, 2012

Nashinator Solar Panel


Goes Solar

Since we bought our 2006 17C  Nashinator several week ago, we have been incorporating several improvements to it, to make it more livable for us. Those changes include a 2000w inverter/charger, a 120w solar panel, (2) 6v golf cart batteries, monitoring stations, a built in LCD TV and DVD player, a wireless headphone setup, and some storage and other improvements. Following are the details of the solar system:

The solar panel is connected to the (2) 6v golf cart batteries via a charge controller. We have one EMM120w 120w 24v monocrystalline panel that is 32" x 42" purchased on Ebay from The Energy Mill. This is connected with 8 awg cables to a Morningstar Sun Saver SS-MPPT-15L controller, which is connected to the batteries. This setup works pretty well with good sunshine, producing up to 7a at 12v, which helps recharge the batteries, but buy no means keeps up with our daily use. We can usually last 2-3 days before needing a full charge. We replaced the (2) original deep cycle 12v batteries with (2) Costco 6v golf cart batteries. I had to buy slightly taller battery boxes, but they still fit in the same place on the front A frame as the others did. 

The panel is attached to the Nash's roof rack using a tilting mount of my own creation. The panel has a length of 1" x 2" aluminum angle iron screwed to each long side. In the corner of each channel is a 2" x 1/4" stainless bolt anchored with lock nuts. The base is made from two 62" x 1" x 2" aluminum channel screwed down to the rack with ss bolts and lock nuts. Where each of the four added solar panel bolts protrude,  I mounted stainless boat hinges down to the channel using ss bolts and locknuts. The 1/4" bolts go through the top part of the hinges and anchor with stainless wingnuts. I also fabricated lengths of 1" aluminum in 2' and 3' lengths so the panel can be supported at an angle, which because of the design can be in any direction, even compound angles. 

Because of this fortunate location, I was able to snake the cables down the waste vent which is just there at the roof  rack location., rather than use the undersized cables provided by Northwood which come up at the front end of the trailer. The cables exit the pipe around eye level and are fished down through the closet into the space under the rear dinette seat. From there, the cables are fed across to terminate in the area under the front dinette seat, where the charge controller and Xantres inverter/charge are anchored. 

 Here are photos:


Channel with hinges attached to bolts on panel. 

Panel shown with longer tilt brackets

Channel is bolted to roof rack

Cables going down waste vent

Brackets for angling panel
Charge controller
Golf Cart batteries





We just recently bought this nifty 2006 Nash travel trailer and sold the Tioga RV after 18 years of family enjoyment. The Nash is light and nimble, yet very well built. While less "spacious" than the Tioga (and certainly many many other huge trailers, 5th wheels and motor homes), it has a great floor plan with plenty of space and storage for our family of three. It is also is easy to pull with our 2006 Toyota Tundra, and relatively easy on the checkbook, gas-wise. Nash is made in La Grande, OR by Northwood Mfg., who also makes the Arctic fox and other trailers and campers. 

I will next be posting some of the improvements we've made to the "Nashinator" to make it best suited for our camping style, including a 2000w inverter/charge, 120w solar panel,  golf cart batteries, Flat screen TV/DVD, and other storage improvements.